Het is een fysieke maar ook een mentale uitdaging. Drie weken lang elke dag kilometers en uren lang op het dak van de wereld lopen. Hoe hoger je komt, hoe minder zuurstof is de regel. Waarschuwingen over eventuele high altitude sickness boven de 3000 meter vliegen je om de oren voordat je eraan begint. Maar voor diegenen die de risico’s durven te lopen, is de beloning het meer dan waard.

De top is voor rijkerds

Everest. De naam prikkelt de verbeelding en speelt met het verlangen. Beelden doemen op van ijzige winden en witte toppen, en van een eenzame berg die uittorent boven een immens landschap van andere eenzame bergen. Everest. De hoogste berg van de wereld is en blijft een motivatie voor klimmers. Sir Edmund Hillary was de eerste die het lukte de top te bereiken in 1953, waarna talloze mensen in zijn voetsporen traden. Om vandaag de dag hetzelfde te doen, heb je geld nodig: 50.000 Amerikaanse dollars om een poging te wagen de piek te veroveren. Voor de backpacker die dat niet zo een twee drie onder zijn matras heeft liggen, kan de tocht naar Everest Base Camp (5200 meter) maken zonder bankroet te worden.

                                                                                                                                           Zonsopkomst boven Mt. Everest

Bijna-doodervaring

‘Holy shit!’, zul je roepen wanneer je de berg op je af ziet komen. ‘De piloot is krankzinnig geworden!’. Er is geen tijd voor een schietgebed, slechts willekeurige scenes van je leven flitsen voorbij in gedachten. Je klampt je zachtjes vast aan de persoon die naast je zit. Waarom moest juist deze piloot suïcidale neigingen hebben? Je begint het leven alsook de dood te contempleren, en je krijgt het gevoel te zweven. Wellicht een mystieke ervaring? Geen idee, want het maakt ook niet meer uit. Nog een paar seconden. En terwijl de zweetdruppels zich een weg banen op je voorhoofd, en je het leven al hebt opgegeven, voel je dat de wielen van het vliegtuig toch wel degelijk de grond raken. Het lijkt uit het niets te verschijnen.

‘Het is niet de berg die we overwinnen, maar onszelf.

Bij het afremmen van het toestel snap je eveneens waarom men de landingsbaan van Lukla omschrijft als de gevaarlijkste ter wereld: het is slechts 500 meter lang en begint of eindigt bij een onpeilbare ravijn. Wanneer je dan bij het uitstappen de stewardess gedag en namaste hebt gewenst, en je de ijle lucht van Lukla al inademt, voel je de echo’s van deze ervaring. De dood geeft je levenslust.

 

‘De helling van Everest ligt bezaaid met lijken’

Dood als inspiratie. Dat is dan ook precies wat klimmers van extreme hoogten onontbeerlijk zullen toegeven. Want wat bezielt een normaal en verstandig persoon om een expeditie te ondernemen waarbij pijn en fysieke ontbering de lei(ij)draad zijn en er een reële kans bestaat om te sterven? De helling van Everest, zo wordt soms theatraal verwoordt, ligt immers bezaaid met lijken. (Het heeft zelfs een officieuze begraafplaats). Dit geldt voor expedities naar de top, maar ook de relatief veilige weg naar Everest Base Camp mag niet onderschat worden. Wat vormt die fundamentele drang naar het beklimmen van de hoogste berg ter wereld? Het lijkt erop dat niet desondanks, maar juist vanwege de gevaren de klim zijn aantrekkingskracht krijgt. Een magneet voor malloten en wildebrassen, zou je kunnen zeggen. Het zijn echter ook deze excentriekelingen die weten wat het geheim is. Het geheim van het leven bekijken vanaf een hogere plaats. Het geheim van beweging: dat een zittend leven achter een bureau niks meer is dan een illusie en een vegetatief bestaan. Dat het leven ten volle geleefd wordt wanneer je na een dag klimmen op een plaats aankomt waarbij de zon dichterbij lijkt dan je ooit had kunnen bedenken en waarbij de stilte tussen de bergtoppen je een gevoel geeft van ware vrijheid. Een viering van het Simpele Leven. Het zijn zij die de conformisten van de maatschappij als de ware gekken beschouwen. En wellicht hebben ze gelijk.

Om mani padme hum

De eerste dagen kunnen mogelijk afkickverschijnselen geven bij sommigen. Afkicken van een wereld waarin constante afleiding de norm is geworden. Geen televisie, geen telefoon en geen internetverbinding (die is er wel, maar enorm duur!). Terug naar de basis. Voortdurend op je smartphone kijken om 9GAG te checken of Facebook door scrollen zal uit je hoofd gezet moeten worden. Het rumoer van auto’s zal er niet meer zijn; slechts het geluid van je eigen voetstappen zul je horen en de tonen van absolute stilte. Het probleemdenken dat normaal de modus van je gedachten vormt in je drukke leven, zal afgeschud worden boven de boomgrens. De enige deadline is het halen van de volgende lodge voor de zon onder gaat. Onderweg zullen de bergen je aanstaren en jij staart geregeld terug en je zult lachen om de grootsheid van de natuur. In de tempels die op de route liggen, zullen de boeddhisten mediteren en onder de geur van wierook hun mantra opzeggen: Om mani padme hum…om mani padme hum…om mani padme hum… Je zal ze bewonderend aankijken, maar pas achteraf beseffen dat de hele trektocht de ultieme meditatie is geweest. En wanneer je dan het punt hebt bereikt van Everest Base Camp, zul je ook de uitspraak van Edmund Hillary ten volle begrijpen: ‘het is niet de berg die we overwinnen, maar onszelf.’

 

Everest

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